|
Tips and Hints
Remember: safety first. Always wear eye protection when using power tools. Scroll down for a helping of useful modelling tips, or click on the numbers below to jump straight to a particular tip.
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20] [21] [22]
 |
Tip 1
Don’t be put off if you can’t achieve perfection with your model, because demanding absolute precision is demoralising, confusing and sometimes just plain unnecessary. The full-scale thing probably wasn’t perfect! |
 |
|
|
|
|
Tip 2
To get a good finish to any model, there is no substitute for thorough research. Once you have chosen your subject, go and look at a full size example if you can. Take a camera, and if possible take close-up pictures. |
|
|
 |
 |
|
Tip 3
Take pictures of the detailed parts of the craft such as wing folds and the cockpit, and notes of the shades, colours, labels and details you see. Look too at the tones included in the main colour, produced by different pigmentation, erosion, weathering and cleanliness. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 4
Do your study, buy and build your model, take your time to apply the paint. Don’t be put off if things go wrong with the finish, almost anything can be cured. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 5
Be aware of health and safety
There are a few basic rules to follow before painting:
• Use all paints in a well-ventilated area.
• Wear a mask, especially while rubbing and spray painting.
• Don’t smoke or use naked flames around the paint products. Even proprietary model paints are flammable. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 6
Buy a tack rag, a cloth with a sticky material impregnated into it, for removing dust and dirt and use it at every stage before applying paint. Cammett Ltd can supply these. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 7
Buy a range of good quality brushes for brush painting and fine detail so that you will always find the right one for the job. For the larger areas of bigger scales you will need a range including ¼ inch, ½ inch and 1inch brushes. I always use chisel brushes, with long sable hairs because these give good control. For fine detail, I use 00 and 0 grade brushes. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 8
To maintain your brushes after using and cleaning them thoroughly, smear Vaseline or linseed oil on the hair, as this will prolong their life. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 9
There are two types of airbrush, double and single action. Buy the best you can afford and look after it by cleaning and oiling it regularly. In order to use it, you will need a source of compressed air. Small air compressors are ideal and will last for years. The modern ones can be really quiet. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 10
There are two types of model paint, oil based enamel and acrylic, which can be either water or spirit based. Get the right thinner for the paint you have decided to use. The thinner can be white spirit, cellulose, water or alcohol based. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 11
The best starting point for choosing your colour is the kit manufacturer’s recommendation. Cammett Ltd sell a wide range of colours in both oil and acrylic, and can advise you about the colours you need. Contact us. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 12
Remember that a painted surface is only as good as what lies underneath. Take a good, close look at what you are about to paint, under a magnifying glass if possible, and eradicate scratches, flatten out uneven areas with fine grade wet and dry sandpaper (P800 and P1200). Use a stiff, short haired brush to run around all the seams and engraved detail. Clean the model with soapy water, and allow it to dry thoroughly, and wash your hands. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 13
Before starting to paint, either by brush or with spray, mask areas where the particular colour is not required, to define areas of colour as well as to protect from over-spray. Cammett Ltd can supply masking tapes in a variety of sizes, as well as liquid masking which is used to mask off small side windows, small scale camouflage areas and weathered paint chips. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 14
Start with the lightest colour first. Stir the paint thoroughly to make sure all the pigments are mixed together to give a uniform colour. If the paint is on the thick side, reduce its consistency with small amounts of thinner. If the paint is thin, two coats will probably be necessary, but don’t be tempted to use more paint to try to cover, or the paint will run. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 15
Work one colour at a time and let your model dry for at least twelve hours between coats. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 16
To apply the decals, you will need a gloss finish to prevent silvering of the clear parts of the decal film and to make the surface smooth to allow decals to settle. Decals are applied once the gloss coat is dry. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 17
Use a clean brush set aside for the varnishing, any paint residue in the bristles can settle at the base of the hairs and give a tint where it isn’t wanted. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 18
If you want to portray your model as “just out of the paint-shop”, then accentuate the panel lines and seams by running a sharp pencil around them, or run thinned oil, acrylic or artists’ watercolours into them. Once the paint is on, leave it for a few minutes; wipe the excess with tissue or cloth dampened with thinners. Be very careful if using white spirit; make sure your clear coat below the weathering is thoroughly dry. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 19
You can imitate fading, exhaust and gun port stains using powders, or chalks and pastel sticks (available form art shops) ground down into powder or specialist powders such as MMP weathering powders available from our store. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
Tip 20
This material is incredible and has many uses. By placing in your fingers you can slowly bend the tube without any great effort to the shape you require, without kinking. You will be surprised at what this tubing will do. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 21 (part One)
There are two ways of Cutting stainless steel:
Small diameter tube can be cut using a heavy duty Stanley blade. Roll the blade on the tube in a backward and forward motion with slight downward pressure, when the blade breaks through snap off the piece you are cutting and clean up both faces using a file or small drill of the correct size. A tapered reamer for airbrushes is also useful for this task. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 21 (Part Two)
For larger diameter tubes use a carborundum cutting disc (we can supply cutting sets) in a mini drill. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses. It is advisable to tape both ends down to stop the cut piece flying off to oblivion. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 21 (Part Three)
For large ship barrels just cut off small inserts , drill out the plastic/ resin barrel and place the insert. This gives a very convincing appearance. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Tip 22
To get a neat finish after cutting you tube, use a three cornered reamer (used for cleaning airbrushes) to clean out the ends. Contact us for supplies of these useful tools. |
|
|
|
[ back to top ] |
|
